![]() ![]() Then there was the dystopian-influenced lineup clearly brought to life in part because of A Clockwork Orange.īuilding collections around movies may seem a bit of a foible, not quite in line with the visionary tactics for which Undercover has long been known. Other films have played roles, as well, like Stanley Kubrick’s legendary 2001: A Space Odyssey, for which Takahashi displayed puffy parkas that resembled space attire and billowing ponchos bearing iconic scenes from the big screen. Who else could infuse a spring show with inspiration from The Shining, complete with freakishly ghoulish identical twins in identical garb, sashaying down the runway, as he did in 2018? Undercover was dark, yes, but also fearless, deeply imaginative, and even playful at times. He wasn’t interested so much in the clean lines as in what lived underneath them. Indeed, he strayed from the tried and true. There was a sense that streetwear would never be the same if Takahashi had anything to do with it. The juxtaposition was dramatic, and not for the timid. His goal was to create attire that was as striking as it was sharp, as appealing as it was strange, as chaotic as it was fantastic. Only his aim was to reinterpret the look in his own way. And if there was one principle by which Takahashi could abide, it was rebellion. The veritable grand dame of punk knew rebellious style quite like no other. During the late ’80s, he was the front man for the Tokyo Sex Pistols, a time during which he also happened to idolize Vivienne Westwood. To understand Takahashi’s influence, it helps to delve into his roots. The newest store honored the original location on an aesthetic level, but the garments were of decidedly higher quality. But the gift that it brought both of them was never far from their minds, and in ’09 the two opened a temporary NOWHERE spot in Hong Kong. ![]() Photo via Įventually NOWHERE closed shop in 2000, as both men had long since carved out impressive design careers of their own. It was a different, stylistic approach to casual dressing that carried tremendous influence from the worlds of hip-hop, skate, and reggae. It was a look largely characterized by boldly patterned T-shirts, often depicting playful characters, along with logo-emblazoned hoodies and heavy baggy denim that ruled the ’90s circuit. The style at the time was known as Urahara kei. The two added to their store’s collection, introducing a number of Japanese lines alongside select pieces from America. There was an “anything” goes mentality that made it the perfect spot for youth to collect and express themselves. During its earliest days, the Urahara district where it was located exuded the best type of independent vibe. To say that NOWHERE changed the game is an understatement. Here, Takahashi introduced his T-shirt collection, and eventually the store flourished thanks to its extensive Undercover and BAPE lineup. ![]() Their first collaboration came in the form of NOWHERE, a retail shop that opened in 1993. At the time, he worked closely with NIGO, the beloved designer who established A Bathing Ape (BAPE) some years later. So inspired was Takahashi that he founded Undercover in 1990. It was creative-and that ultimately mattered far more than any fleeting trend ever could. There was a certain freedom in dressing with such reckless abandon and bold appreciation for color and print. His approach to fashion had always been outlandish, but visions of elaborate headgear, frothy skirts, and bold patterns signaled that sartorial adventure could, for many, be a way of life. Witnessing a Comme des Garçons show at that young age catapulted his thought process in a different direction. As a student at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, he was enthralled by punk culture and subversive style. That Takahashi worked with Rei Kawakubo, who founded Comme des Garçons, should come as no surprise. The range bridges the gap between couture and streetwear, yielding pieces simultaneously luxe and louche. It all covers Undercover, a line whose designer, Jun Takahashi, makes no secret of his appreciation for the darker side of style. ![]()
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